If you know the bouldering sport and you have already spent some time in the local bouldering halls. You just can’t pass the small town south-east of Paris. That’s because Fontainebleau is the birthplace of bouldering. Bouldering in Fontainebleau is an unmistakable experience what every thoroughbred boulderer must have experienced !
How it all began
The first sightings of the then “Bleausards” date back to the beginning of the 20th century. However, bouldering in Fontainebelau was not officially documented until the 80s. One of the classics in Bleau is the world’s first “6a – La Marie Rose”, which was first climbed by Rene’ Ferlet in 1946 in the “Bas Cuvier” area. The first “7a – L’Abbatoir” followed fourteen years later, also in “Bas Cuvier”, where it was Michel Libert who proved that he could be. A further milestone for the sport was the expansion from single bouldering to a “parcours”. The “Parcours” is about climbing given boulders in a certain order. This can also be used as an ideal possibility for a nice warm-up.
The most important thing to know
The best time to go bouldering in Fontainebleau is between October and April. At this time the grip on the sandstone is one of the best. Of course there is nothing like a visit in summer, it will probably be more difficult with your projects here. However, warm and bright evenings in the group after a hard day in the rocks are not to be despised. Now to the bouldering problems: There is enough for two lives here. Altogether far more than 20.000 around Fontainebleau and almost every day new ones are added. The rock structure is very versatile from holes, cracks to ledges and slopers. Everyone will find something for his personal boulder style. A good kicking technique is very important for bouldering in Fontainebleau. Because there are many slabs that require a very precise step.
The top 3 areas
1st place Bas Cuvier is in my opinion the winner here. Some boulders have become a bit bacony over the years due to their popularity, but the area has not lost any of its charm.
+ Many great classics
+ Very good drop zone (even and sandy)
+ Only 1 minute walk from the parking lot
2nd place is occupied by L’Elephant, one of the most southerly areas but definitely worth a visit.
+ Mega high Highballs
+ Versatile boulders (mostly holey)
+ Lies in a beautiful pine forest (great opportunity for hiking)
3rd place is Franchard Cuisiniere beautifully located area the way there is a little bit further, but it is worth it !
+ Very nice slab climbing (what technology fanatics)
+ Herbaceous scenery on sunny days
Of course, there are many more areas among the total of 45 that are definitely worth a visit. If you want to get a better impression check out the website https://bleau.info/
A heart for the environment
Forests are very sensitive ecosystems which can be damaged by human influence. Therefore it is even more important to always make sure that you behave accordingly. So that the next generation can enjoy the beautiful boulders around Fontainebleau.
– Always take your trash with you
– Don’t make too much noise (the forest dwellers will thank you for it)
– Use chalk sparingly (the rock becomes greasy)
– Removes chalk traces or tick marks on the rock
It is often only small things that can make a big difference. Always in harmony with mother nature is the motto.
Well ! now you really want to get the goat ? Then book your own “Bleau” bouldering trip >>Here<<